Dolac – Primošten

After the stormy farewell from Biograd, I am continuing with the car. The first stop of my road trip brings me only about 70 kilometers further to the south. I would like to spend peaceful first days alone, away from tourist distractions, away from predetermined walking tours. I want to set my own rhythm and slow down a bit. Therefore, my first destination is the small village of Dolac directly on the sea. A few kilometers away is Primošten – where I can do my shopping and mingle, in case I feel lonely.

My apartment is a well hidden treasure on the hill, which rises steeply directly from the coast. I almost did not find it – even Google Maps is confused at the strange turnoff and leads me up the wrong lane steeply uphill. So I quickly realize how long I have not steered a car uphill. Several times the engine howls loudly – finally I understand how I get ahead. But I can not go far – I’m in a dead end. Huh. So back down. Slowly. Careful. Suddenly, an elderly lady waves, she calls me Anita – it’s my landlady. I drove past the exit of her parking lot, the entry is in the next street. The parking lot and the two streets are too narrow to have entry and exit the same way… No wonder the navigation system is confused 🙂

The room is nice and clean. Lubica, my landlady, emphasizes that she cleans everything herself and therefore everything is in good condition. She uses the house only as a summer home, actually the family lives with two grown children and nine grandchildren in Šibenik. I am warmly welcomed, but Lubica asks three times whether I’m actually traveling alone. This is probably not as common among her guests – I think I’ll have to get used to this reaction 🙂

The village is tiny. There are no shops, there is no center. Only flats that are converted into holiday rentals in the summer, and two or three restaurants. If you want to buy something, you must go to Primošten, in case you need an optician you even have to go to Šibenik. But I enjoy the isolation. If I want, I can go for a short walk to the coast and bathe right there on the stone beach – that may not be as comfortable as on the public beaches, but I’m almost alone here.

I’m visiting Primošten two times. A nice village and spruced up. In the old town you can see the remains of the city wall, many charming shops invite you to browse through. From the wide streets a few narrow lanes branch off. One of them leads me up to the church which is perched on a hill above the village.

It is a perfect place for vacation – affordable prices, friendly service, great weather and a picturesque place. This gem has been discovered by tourists, especially from Slovakia, Germany and the Czech Republic. I hear many familiar sounds and have to smile about the unmistakable “tak jooo”, which the wind carries to me. After diving into the atmospheric beach promenade for a while, I turn around. Back to the car. Back to my secluded apartment, enjoying the evening with a glass of red wine.